Jewellery of Bengal Tribal Style

Ornament usage in women is not only traditional but it is found in every civilization of human history ancient or modern. Today also there are no such changes in that tradition. This is liked by not only urban women but also rural women. Even it is common in tribal too. They wear fewer cloths but jewelers are must for every woman.



In West Bengal the tribal use various kind of jewellery and beautiful they are in their craft architecture and style. The metals used to manufacture this jewellery are Gold, Silver, brass, Zinc alloys, stones etc. For jewellery making one cast is also defined there in West Bengal and known as Swarnakar.

Now a day the designs are very intricate or light weighed rather than old style of heavy jewellery. The Swarnakars are highly skillful and they are very much capable of making these intricate designs with fewer metals used.
Tribal designs are also favorite amongst the urban women. Some of the popular designs which are found very common in West Bengal are Kaan, Tikli, Chick, Baju, Tabiz, Tagaa, Hunsuli, Chur, Ratnachur, Dokra etc.

Kaan is very traditional kind of jewellery which is made of very thin Gold Sheet that actually covers the whole Ear and worn on special occasions. Also one kind of Ear ring also worn by women for regular use that is also made of thin Gold and worn on the lower part of the Ear and it actually moves when there is any movement by the face and also it is very much light weighted and preferable to use for daily activities.

Tikli is an ornament which is not worn by women regularly but especially in Marraige Ceremony Bengali bride uses it. This ornament is used in forehead on the central partition of the hair which is normally used for Sindur. The ornament is like a chain with string of pearls and the extreme front part it is circle with beautiful Gold or Silver design and some stone touch. This is very special for Bengali Bride.

Chick is again another kind of special ornament widely used by Bengali women. This is also a chain type ornament which is designed specially by Silver or Gold and studded with precious stones and it covers the entire upper neck. This is as wide as one inch and very beautifully designed worn in special occasions, marriage ceremonies.

Baju, Taabiz & Tagaa are the real traditional rural liked ornaments used by Bengali women especially tribal. These ornaments are specially meant for Arms lower part or upper part. It is a kind of hollow bangles intricately designed and made of specially Gold or Silver. Now a day Sankha and Paula are also designed by Silver and Gold in the upper portion of Sankha and Paula. These ornaments are specially used by married women, unmarried women also wear these kind of bangles frequently. This is very much special in Bengal.

Hunsuli is a kind of ornament is specially made of silver and worn around the neck very snugly. This is a traditional recognition of Muslim women liked ornament. Though now almost all casts are trying this design by using Gold.

Ratnachur is also very much elite class ornament and originated from Mughal culture. It is very intricate designed and covers the entire fingers. It has five chains and attached with five decorated rings at the back portion of the hand. Proper caring are needed to make it as well as to wear it. This is commonly seen in elite class women.

Chur is specially a very wide bangle with delicate designs, a kind of bracelet made of Gold. If someone makes it by Silver then do plate it by Golden Color. This is also a sign of womanhood in Bengal.

Dokara is also special bangle used by Bengalis and a pure tribal culture is there. This is made of brass, bronze etc. This ornament is manufactured in a very peculiar way by wax on a clay core which is previously prepared by desired designs. To make it lamps, chains, figures, tribal symbols of clay etc. One spatiality of Dokra is that every Dokra is unique and different from each other as the designs are concern. This is the symbol of Bengali tribal folklore.




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Manidip